WILMINGTON, N.C. (WECT) – Plenty of comings and goings in Wilmington’s food scene right now, with several new restaurants opening up shop. I will feature the new South Front Tavern (taking the place of the old Second Glass location) next week, but this week I got the chance to visit the new Commodore Public House and Kitchen.
After leaving the Brit Floyd show last week (amazing Pink Floyd cover band) I drove down 4th Street and passed by Commodore in the Brooklyn Arts District. I had previously read about its creation and the thought process behind it, and was excited to see it was up and running. The following night, I was sitting at the bar and enjoying some tasty food and drink.
Owned and operated by the same folks as Rebellion and Fox’s Hole in the Wall, Commodore is beautiful inside. The space is cozy and inviting with a rustic nautical theme, comfortable bar stools and some televisions for sports. The menu is similar to its Wilmington brethren, with an eclectic mix of appetizers, sandwiches, and handhelds to choose from.
I started with a bourbon-based cocktail called “Cherry Coke,” which dangerously masked the Four Roses bourbon and made for a refreshing sipper. There is a small but solid amount of craft beers on draft, plus super cool pony bottles of Miller High Life. Overall, Commodore has more of a rum-forward focus when it comes to cocktails, it’s not tiki, but you can find a number of hard-to-find rums behind the bar and a variety of rum drinks. Given rum is from the Caribbean and Spanish isles, it makes sense the food would be inspired by that as well.
For apps you can choose from “Atomic Pimento Cheese,” chicken wings, or smothered fries with cheese, pulled pork, and “wasakaka” (think a mix of guacamole and chimichurri). For something more substantial, you can opt for cheeseburgers with bacon jam, a fried chicken sandwich with pimento cheese, or a brisket sandwich on a Cuban roll.
We tried Commodore’s take on a quesadilla, the “Commodilla.” This one was loaded with various cheeses and “churrasco,” or grilled beef. Served with a side of homemade poblano ranch, there was plenty to share and it really hits the spot.
I ordered “Lola’s Sliders,” which were mini burgers, melted cheese, caramelized onions, and garlic pickles on a base of tostones. These had loads of flavor, but given the restaurant had only been open for less than a week, I felt obliged to tell the bartender they needed a sauce of some sort to cover all the bases (if you order these, ask for some ranch or wasakaka for dipping).
My friends tried the lemon pepper chicken wings, macaroni and cheese, and sweet potato fries. All of which were spot on, though the cheesy mac was a real homerun.
Even though it just opened, Commodore Public House and Kitchen is already gaining a quick following. I drove by again the next night and there were people out the door waiting to get inside. It’s a nice addition to the Brooklyn Arts District, and will prove especially popular when seeking some late night bites in the area. Give it a shot, and let know what you think.
IF YOU GO:
Commodore Public House and Kitchen is located at 620 N 4th St, Wilmington, NC 28401
Do you recommend a restaurant? Or know of a best-kept secret that you want the rest of the Cape Fear to know about? Shoot me an email at corey.preece@gray.tv and I would love to feature your selection. Cheers!
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